Kribi - a perfect way to end our stay

The last few days provided the opportunity to go to Kribi, a quick trip to a tropical beach. The journey was an adventure. I have never been in such a tightly packed bus before; the rows should take four but with the additional fold up sit extended into the aisle made it five, plus children. Our luggage was tossed on top of the bus, later joined by a goat, that was passed up and tethered to the roof rack for the journey. Getting out en route was demonstrated by a young woman who went out via the window. Her goods, shoes, etc passed to her by fellow passengers.

Arriving in Kribi, Elvis, one of the

many taxi drivers who decended on

us when we arrived, came from Bamenda and spoke English.

He was most helpful and helped us locate an hotel, within our budget.

Le Jardin d'Eden was just right, simple, met our needs and the setting idyllic. We arrived early afternoon and the next day we went for a walk , watched the fishing net being pulled in, but sadly only a small catch.

The return journey was as interesting and a final shop at the local market when we got back to buy some Cameroon football shirts to take home .

I have been back a while and I suspect I am the slowest blogger ever but thank you for your best wishes and joining me on my journey. It is good to be home .

Would I go back, yes, I would love to, working in Cameroon was an experience not to be missed but anywhere in Africa would be fine.

See how it goes and what opportunities present in the future.

Wendy

Last week in Cameroon

Setting time aside for sightseeing. First a trip to Lake Alwen. We left early in the morning; it was cool, misty and had that early morning calm feeling as we drove up the hill to up station. Looking back on Bamenda I realized yet again how spread out the town is. The drive was lovely and even better as we went higher through the Eucalyptus forests that Penny had referred to when describing previous work she had done with the forestry department, planting these trees. As we were going uphill I noticed there has been some small mud slides, not surprising in the rainy season but thankfully they were not severe enough to close the roads.

Lake Alwen was lovely, so calm and peaceful. It is quite a big lake and the surrounding vegetations, trees so green. We could not gain access as the gates were locked. In the early morning mist it reminded me of the Lake District. We explored but could not go far. A notice gave instructions of what not to do so as to avoid forest fires, including smoking bees for honey. On the way back we passed some young boys driving cattle, who live a more nomadic life, settling for short periods with the cattle before moving on.








It was a good day and when we returned Valeret wanted us to be
part of group family photos,
for which he had hired a professional photographer.

Born House, a special occasion

Visiting a family to celebrate the birth

of their child, now 6 weeks old was a

very special occasion.

We went to NOWEFOR with a view to getting a taxi at 11.00 am. Although we did not arrive until just before 11.00 no-one else came for another half hour, and then the others about an hour or more later. Although it was nearly 3 hours before we left and were on our way I don’t think I would have wanted everyone arriving so early.

The mother worked at NOWEFOR and we were the first of a number of groups that would call. Some cooked rice was taken as a contribution and the Chairman took a supply of palm wine.

We were made to feel very welcome and part of a ‘family’. Banana cake was served soon after we arrived and

then ‘chop'. Top, was also provided as an alternative to palm wine.

The conversation and banter was most entertaining. After which there was also prayers for the family and a speech from the father, a farmer.

I loved the way they all tenderly handled the baby in an experienced way. Many photos and groups photos were taken

R&R shoppping and social occasions

Early July we had a completely free weekend other than meeting Sam, Veronica’s brother to go find some material and then to the market to find a dressmaker and wander around and get some fruit to make a fruit salad for the party. Going into the material shop was like sweet shop, so much choice and a kaleidoscope of colours. The materials are set up a folded sheath all the same size, the quality of cotton and finish determines the price. Eventually with Sam’s guidance I found something I liked that was bright enough but would not look like a table cloth.

We wandered around the market with its different products, smells and hustle and bustle. I took loads of photos but was careful to ask first, which I always do as the local people do not like their photo being taken or

ask for payment. At the end we bought

fruit and with Sam's help bartered .

Down loading the photos later I thought, yes to some degree I have caught the experience and range of products sold. They have many clothes, shoes and goods sent from Europe in bales, hich they buy and then sell in the market.

In the afternoon we had been invite to

Marcy and Cary’s ( VSO volunteers)

house to celebrate Canada Day, is 1st July but today is Saturday and why not hijack 4th July, their neighbour’s independence day. A number of volunteers had been invited and asked to bring food, hence buying the fruit for the fruit salad for desert. It was good to see them all and to see their house although they had not had water or electricity for the last day or so and therefore were using the pit toilet at the end of the garden.

Apparently in the dry season water is often not available and the outside loo comes in handy. They do have a flush toilet and shower in the house, along with a small kitchen, two bedrooms and a living room with cane furniture and a table. The house is set behind a secure wall and high solid metal gates with a large bolt that they shot back after letting guests in.

The food was good, mostly vegetarian and Ryan had got up at 6.30a.m. to make Maja blanca, a Filipino dish. It is a desert made with corn starch, powdered milk, sugar and pieces of corn. At first I thought it looked like blancmange but it tasted much better, delicate but really good. The photo show it in all its glory served on banana leaf.

Different ways of working

You may already know I am back home, well and now fully rested. It is time to think back and update the blog now that I have completed my report for VSO. So how have I got on with what was I asked to do in Cameroon? It was like starting any new job, it took to time get to know what I was here to do and to feel that I was making a contribution.

I took the opportunity to meet different people which enabled me to begin to understand and work out what I was to do and how. The situation improved once I started attending the Union meetings, contributing to the organisations

OD self assessment a well as the

Human Resources workshop and

the Gender and Health workshops.

They added to my understanding of what were community organisations,

as well as providing me with the information I sought to review CBOD both as a concept but practically too.

I have learnt so much that I can take back through observing various styles of facilitation, work shop activities, different ways to encourage participation and also had the chance to try out new ways of doing things. For example neutral probing questions to have a better understanding of the participants' responses, being part of and enjoying the workshops, even when the discussions became circular and

we got stuck.

New approaches included demonstrating

appraisals through role play and for the CBOD review designing a short questionnaire for volunteers, facilitating small focus groups and using memory stick (flash) and lapptops for them to record the discussion points.

French, English and Pidgin are the common languages used in Cameroon and how to communicate well with people for whom English is a second or third language is important. There are said to be 256 dialects in Cameroon so

I had to learn to follow Pidgin, a language

commonly used by the farmers here in

the North West region. I was mindful that

I have a very English accent, a quiet voice so I had to make sure that I could be understood. This meant getting to know the local culture and what was important to them.

On our last day Keri and I dressed in our African dresses did a joint presentation in the morning to provide NOWEFOR feedback , what we have learnt and also some recommendations. It was a good session although sad to say good bye.

That afternoon we settled our affairs at the Baptist centre, packed etc as we were leaving for Yaounde early the next day and then the plan was to have a short holiday in Kribi. So next posting will be more about R&R

Our last contact with health care, albeit informal on 11th July was with CODEF ( Community Development and Epilepsy Foundation), which is a member or partner of NWADO, North West Association of Development Organizations. CODEF is a small community based organization that works with people with epilepsy. The organization seeks to advocate and lobby on behalf of people with epilepsy, do home visits to counsel them re treatment, only Phenobarbitone 100 mg daily prescribed with minimal if any follow up, noting that traditional medicine is purchased so guidance given regarding possibility of effects of traditional medicine mixing with English medicine. Kenneth also asks and encourages children to go to school and go to church so that they do not become isolated. He has also established a lay volunteers group who visit the people on his case load. There seems to be a high number, 200 in a small village and again a considerable number in another. I wondered and asked to what degree this was related to birth difficulties, lack of antenatal (prenatal) care. K added also it may be linked to the tradition of bandaging to apply pressure to shape the baby’s head after birth. One of the main problems encountered is the person with epilepsy sustaining burns as cooking takes place on open fires hence increasing the risk of seizure occurring when near the fire. There are a lot of myths surrounding epilepsy and they are a marginalized group within their own community.



Home visiting meant trecking along roads between the houses along paths though the ‘ bush’ I really enjoyed home visits as it reminded me of how I like nursing in people’s homes. The relationship is different to working in acute hospitals. The focus of the visits was to support the families as well as the person with epilepsy. Looking at Kenneth’s statistics at a later date I noted how many were teenagers, young adults with only very few were 30 – 42 years old age range. The first family the children were home but the family were working on the farm. Likewise the second family but the grandmother was around. Kenneth was excellent in ensuring by listening and taking it at a slow pace that the young girl spoke for herself. He elicited through discussion with the older woman that traditional medicine, herbs, was also being used as well as the phenobarbitone. I was struck by how tactfully but clearly he addressed this when we met the father on the road as he who was coming back to the house for the meeting. Payment is required for ‘ English medicine’ as well as traditional medicine but Kenneth raised the possibility that the medicines might clash therefore to keep this in mind.



Another visit was to a young woman who had sustained severe burns and scarring over a period of time, the worst noted by Bill in his blog. They had healed the wounds using boiled water with some salt to clean the burns. Pastor Gorge said a prayer for the young woman and her family before we left. Within their compound they had a traditional built house which they let me photograph.









Our last visit before the meeting with some families and volunteers was to see a young mother who had baby twins. Kenneth was concerned as previously he had noticed that they were not being fed well. Unfortunately they were not at home.



We then went to the meeting, held in a house in Bafut, the room donated to CODEF by the Fon and met the deputy mayor, a woman who supported CODDEF work, carers and peole with epilepsy and some volunteers. After the meeting we were waiting for the taxi when Kenneth saw the young woman with twins across the road at another house, but she had only one small child, the other sadly had died.

CODEF has limited capacity and resources but works with local volunteers and hopes to extend their work in another village where the incidence of epilepsy is high.

Traditional dental care

Before going to work we left early to observe Veronica's encounter with a traditional dental hygienist. I know no other way of describing it. We had breakfast early and then caught a taxi to old town Bamenda, to where Veronica grew up. Bali, mentioned earlier, is her father's village. Apparently it is a tough area of town and she is certainly not one to be messed about.

Veronica is best described as a wonderful combination of an assertive, intelligent, compassionate Cameroon woman, who does not suffer fools gladly. How much of that has been added to by the experience of living in the USA, I don’t know but she has a lot of drive.

But let's get back to the traditional dental care. We arrived and he put a pot, hole in top and bottom, on top of three balls of some mixture, which was heated on a spade. Veronica took the smoke into her mouth, which she ensures us she did not inhale. This was done three times and the pot lifted.

The photos show it all! Three tiny maggots were located coming away from the melted mixture, apparently these came from Veronica’s mouth. She last did it about ten days or more

ago and 14 maggots came out.

Now what does one make of that?

I think after all these extra curricular activities it is time I wrote about what I am doing here and something about every day life.

Back soon....

Veronica's project

Another experience was voluntary (voluntary) work. At the Baptist Centre we met Veronica, a Cameroonian woman who is from Bamenda and now lives in the USA. She had come to visit her family but also to set up an outreach screening clinic for hypertension and diabetes. This meant doing some work back in the USA so as to be able to access the population, get medicines and equipment so as to demonstrate the value of such a project home in the USA where she hopes to raise more funds so as to establish regular screening service. I offered to help as I thought it would be useful to do some hands on clinical work. So we went to Bali hospital first to get the signed authorization before going on to the small clinic where a number of nurses and a pharmacist from the Bali Hospital not unlike the one in Bamenda but much smaller, had also offered to help. In the time available about 200 people from around the village came. We started about 10.30 and people arrived steadily through the morning, walking to the clinic form outlying areas. Two reporters were present and interviewed Veronica as part of promoting her project. We saw people of all ages, men, women and children, many with symptoms such as general aches, pains, (it is a farming area which involves hard physical work), temperature at night and belly bite. also babies with nappy rash. I helped with blood pressure screening and taking blood samples (finger pricks) to measure blood sugar levels; those with high levels were advised to go to the hospital. The nurse I worked with, Renee prescribed some medicines which they collected free from the pharmacist. Free medicines for those that needed it was an inducement that worked. Some were already on medication for hypertension so it was advice about seeing the doctor again and the importance of continuing to take the prescribed medication. I hope the photos give some indication of what it was like. It was a great day, I was so pleased to be able to help and I enjoyed the experience.

Next blog will be traditional dental care....

Health Care facilities

The internet connection has been intermittent and there is so much to add to update the blog. So many things going on in a day to day way that I asked myself what I can sum up …so a number of things come to mind and the first will be Health Care facilities.
During our in region training we went to the Mezam polyclinic set up by Dr Achu. Dr Achu provided us with our VSO in region health care advice. The clinic on first impressions was smaller but not dissimilar to the one I went to in Yaoundé for my third rabies vaccination. There is the polyclinic downstairs and some wards upstairs. The top floor is occupied by a NGO wiht5 VSO volunteers that manages a Community Programme for Aids Awareness and Action. The visit provided an opportunity to talk to Dr Achu about the clinic, which he had built after working in Saudi Arabia for 2 years. It provides general health care services, TB clinic and is an authorised centre for HIV/AIDs screening and treatment. I plan to attend a session that is being held there at the end of this week on HIV in the workplace. One of the things I need to consider when reviewing Community Based Organizational Development is programmes for HIV/AIDS, and Malaria.

Bamenda Provincial Hospital
Another opportunity to explore and have a better understanding of what is available for health care was provided one quiet morning. We walked down to the Bamenda Provincial Hospital and training school. First stop was the school for nursing assistants, a big building set back in some grounds near a school. No one was around, all the doors to the offices upstairs and class rooms down stairs were locked. However the notice board indicated that all the students were out on their placements. So to the hospital. We found the entrance for emergency Midwifery, waved my VSO ID card to the security card, explained who we were and without being asked for any further ID he called one of the nurses who took us to the Director of Nursing Office. It was interesting to see that the ward sisters had come for a meeting and had the off duty rotas in their hand. After completing a form requesting a visit to the hospital the Directors’ PA showed us around. It was both interesting and very humbling when considering the demands and the resources available. They provide comprehensive services that include outpatients, Emergency Care, Path lab services and a pharmacy. Again patients pay for their drugs before collecting them. The outpatients department also provide care HIV, TB patients, TB treatment is free; Palliative care although the only pain relief provided is oromorph, opiates not otherwise available. There are also medicine, surgery and midwifery wards. They have three theatres and a recovery /HDU of six beds. The specialist equipment is a suction machine. The X-ray department has one machine and one mobile machine, the ultrasound machine located somewhere else no longer works. l noticed that the technicians do not have the Xray tags to measure their exposure, the supply ran out some time ago. They are as careful as they can be standing behind a screen. The equipment in the maternity unit is limited and very basic. The head midwife, a man has worked there for many years was helpful and felt it was a great privilege to be a midwife. The information board showed they had about 2, 500 births a year, also the HIV incidence reported nationally as 5% is 9% here; but it is a selected population.
Visiting the medical and surgical wards was again humbling. Most of the beds were occupied and many patients had drips. Again the beds were simple iron beds, like in boarding schools of old and families bought in their food. The hospital does cook for patients who have come in from out of town and who have no one to prepare food for them. My impression was that there seemed to be quite a few nurses and student nurses (nursing assistants), often congregated in the nurse’s station / office area. Occasionally one would be in a ward discussing something with a family or in the surgical ward busy with a patient.
Finally we walked past the mortuary, the laundry facilities and mental health ward before going on to the ophthalmic department. Here the doctor was seeing a patient and had one piece of equipment to work with. We were introduced, chatted and then before leaving shook hands before being told that he was a Fon to be! At least he put his hand out first. It is not customary to shake hands with a Fon, tradition is to clap you own hands and sort of bow … but the context was different. And perhaps it is ok to shake hands with a Fon to be!
Before leaving we met and thanked the Director of Nursing, discussed what it cost to fund the tuition fees for training for a registered nurse. £300 for 3 years for general nurse, £500 a year for 4 years for a graduate nurse. Is there something we can do to help?

I am an advocate for the NHS, despite its flaws, visiting the hspital and the other clinics confirms my belief that we are fortunate. Next blog is more about health care and meeting local needs...

First free weekend

Another first. It is the first weekend we have free. So its washing and ironing and time to explore the Baptist Mission site. So after another shower and breakfast I asked Emmanuel direction to the church and he came with me and showed me around the place. First we walked to the church, passing many different buildings, some bigger houses that looked not dissimilar to those we lived in Kampala as well as the site carpentry and mechanics workshop. We also passed the primary school which Emmanuel attended. His intention is to become a Pastor. The church is very large and yes it does get full and sometimes people also stood outside. It is a very Christan society here in the North West and their belief is evident in all they say and do. On our way back we looked into the radio station, which broadcasts for the church and was in the process broadcasting the service currently underway and then on our return walked through the health centre. Here there is a dental service, promoting painless dentistry, i.e. tooth brushing and also an antenatal and child health clinic. There is a dispensary and consulting rooms. Payment has to be made before going to collect the drugs. There is also a clinic for HIV screening and monitoring, with lab services available at the centre. There is a shop that sells artifacts, necklaces, bracelets etc made at the missions, a book shop and a canteen that opens at lunchtime in the week. As we were walking up the steps I hear ‘Sister…’ a way to address a woman or catch her attention. It was an older man with a sack on his back. He did not look well but Emmanuel ushered me on warning me that he was a bad man who sells ‘drugs'. We moved on at the same pace and then returned back to the rest house, where I am staying. An interesting, and thankfully, uneventful walk around the site.

Weekend chores, I left my washing to be done, costing 1000 francs a load and later it was all dry and so I had to iron it all to make sure there were no Tumbo fly eggs. These can get transferred from clothes that have been out to dry to your skin, get settled and later hatch. One of the VSO volunteers gave a gruesome picture of what they are like before they hatch, you can see them moving under your skin. I do remember having something similar in Entebbe and they were safely removed in one go. Now I am more squeamish so yes I will be ironing everything!!

Sunday, after an early breakfast we accompanied Rose to her Church. It is a small Baptist church in Old town Bamenda. It was Fathers day here so it was a service for the men. An interesting, lively and interactive service during which time we had to stand and introduce ourselves to the congregation . We were made to feel very welcome. After the three hour service we walked back to the Mission and time to read and relax later. Later I met up with an American another volunteer, a well travelled person for an early evening meal. Broadening horizons ands experiewncing different cultures we do meet some interesting people here, both at the mission, through VSO and work.

Later I will take some photos to add to this posting...

First day in the office

Wednesday 10th June

First day in the office.

We arrived whilst the employer was having a meeting with the Minister of Agriculture and Rural Affairs and someone from Finance along with the Board Members NWEFOR (North West Farmers organizations) is a co-operative group representing 11 Farmers Unions from across the North West Region. They were expecting us so at an approrpiate time they broke off the meeting and it was introductions all round. Later that afternoon Ibrahim arrived and together with the employers discussed our remit.

What are we here to do? Well it is around VSO helping with building capacity through organizational development. They have developed an explicit process which they want to review. Keri the other short term volunteer from Wales will be looking at the process as applied to NWFOR and another group of ornganizations and I have been asked to look at it in relation to its transferability and application to small community based organizations, such as the NWEFOR Unions and making recommendations. Ibrahim would like the focus to be health, hence us being matched to NWEFOR, that links with the Gender programme, HIV and Malaria.

Tomorrow we have to prepare the work plan for the next few weeks before Ibrahim goes back so that he can see it before he goes off to Canada on Friday. Ibrahim is a great support . Each day he greets you, shakes hands and says hello people, I wish you a happy new day. The way he works and his approach is impressive. He thinks strategically but in a way that he gets across where he wants go from VSO perspective but invites views and asks what people want and how do they want to arrange things. He is also looking out for us, making sure we are ok. So we will be moving rooms. We are across the road in very basic rooms and when the water pressure drops, each morning, there is no water) Power cuts are regular event so nothing new there. Also we are to take taxis not go on motor bikes. That is something that normally would not faze me but hey you see the roads and also how they drive, ride motor bikes. Scary and that’s just in relation to crossing the road!!

Hector, the long term VSO volunteer took us to a small café across the road and I had white beans for lunch, yes we have lunch. . Delicious, we thought it would just be plate of beans but it came with cabbage, carrots and beans, mixed and a piece of fish and meat. They do add both to the dishes. So I am not going out for a meal this evening, an early night is required. The world erupted at 5.30 or earlier today and the dogs had a howling session during the night. We are situated near a busy roundabout and the traffic is so noisy. I am woken up by the sound of lorries, car bikes, hooting and revving plus people shouting, chatting and I think ‘Goodness me Africa is so noisy!! '

What’s it like here? Looking back generally I would say fascinating. I have mostly enjoyed the in country training, learning pidgin was fun, health and security a bit scary. It will also get better once we move across to the main Baptist Mission site.

There is more to add internet access, power supply permitting and me balancing keeping a reflective diary, sending emails and all the other things that one does. So I will update again soon. Meanwhile I have taken some photos of the NWFOR office, the entrance, an arial view and have included the mode of transport they have purchased for staff to use, which are kept in the offce. Some of the farms and villages are extremely difficult to acces by car or it takes a long time.

First week - In Country Training

In Country Training (ICT) in Yaounde and now in Bamenda has been an experience. Difficult to describe Cameroon. It makes the opportunity of working here and the contribution NGOs and volunteers can make very real. I have found the people are very welcoming, open and direct. The time is passing fast but ICT has been a strange mix of working to Cameroon time but at the same time fitting in a lot .

We have covered a wide range of topics being introduced to government structures, culture, health, security and learning Pidgin. The first four days in Yaounde we spent with other VSO volunteers, a group of eight, most being long term vounteeers who will be here for one or two years. We stayed at the Diplomat Hotel, about 5 minutes or so walk to the VSO office. Four of the group are Canadians and they went to the far north, which is French speaking and two are from the Phillipines and are with us in Bamenda. However they will also be moving on leaving us the two WAG short term volunteers here in Bamenda.

We have a lot of support from VSO and the introduction to the ways here although initially daunting are helpful. We travelled up to Bamenda by local transport , a bus journey that took about six hours with one short stop. It was a good journey , we only had to wait an hour for the bus to be full before starting. Some of the roads were very rough, with the added extra of speed bumps but the bumps are not unusual to us. The addition of one passenger demonstrating and selling a cleaning product and the accomnpanying banter from the local women added to the experience. Also passing a lorry that had lost its cargo down the side of the valley, bottled drinks, and the local people taking advantage of the 'gift from the skies' led to great interest and cheers from those on the bus!

Sunday afternoon we went to the Fons palace in Bafut and were shown around the museum and the compound by the Fon's third wife. He has five wives and she has nine children. The culture and ways were described and the visit concluded with a traditonal womens dance. The queen has a great sense of dignity and her role within the Fons community. By ' day' she is a nursery school teacher and her eldest son , who has just finished college, studied maths and physics. Her yugest daughter, one of the dancers had great style and composure; for someone so young she was very special.

Tomorrow I meet my employer and then later we will discuss the detailed work plan for the next seven weeks with Ibrahaim, the Programme Officer. More to follow...

En route to Cameroon

It has been busy the last few days but passport and visa back Friday in time, just, case packed today , just rucksack to do and then I shall be ready to leave for London this evening. Travelling from Heathrow, via Paris to Yaounde and then to Bamenda, where I will be staying in the Baptist Mission. Thank you my good friends for your best wishes. I will keep in touch, learn to do this blog better, insert photos, etc.

I have started blogging...

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